…but I liked Sydney. More on the merits of Sydney later, and I did really like Melbourne as well, but especially for a vacation, Sydney was tops. Melbourne was super interesting, tons of cool little alleys and cafes, etc, but the weather’s not very good and let’s face it, I’m living in Europe. I’m good on the whole museum front. Maybe to live, I’d prefer Melbourne because it seems like there’s a lot of cultural stuff going on that you could always take advantage of, but because so much of it seemed to be knowing underground stuff, it was hard to kind of take it all in in vacation.
Beth’s (obviously) working in Melbourne, so the days were pretty much my own. I took a guided walking tour with this sort of creepy old man, but he was very informative and I learned a lot about the city – it was a big gold rush city, used to be a huge financial capital, etc. I walked around this Queen Victoria market which was pretty cool and basically just roamed the city. I got the impression that that’s sort of the point of Melbourne – there’s not a ton to see and do (I guess kind of like Perth) but it’s about walking around and getting a feel for the place. Honestly, it reminded me a bit of Brooklyn – hipster, a bit pretentious, a bit suspicious of outsiders (especially ones deemed uncool). This all sounds negative, but I swear I actually did like Melbourne. But that did seem to be its general vibe.
Here’s just a couple of pictures of the city (and of Beth and I posing in front of this really famous nude painting... it's apparently worth more than the bar it's in and is a Melbourne landmark):
So anyway, what was really great was getting to meet all of Beth’s housemates and friends. One of her roommates is a superb cook and he made this giant Indian feast for all of us one night. She’s met some very cool people and it was really nice to meet them and see where she works, etc (she’s working at a non-profit that finds housing for low-income people). It’s super cool because now I can picture what her life is like there in Melbourne.
One very interesting thing I did was go to the Melbourne Museum. I only went because there were giant banners up about a King Tut exhibit, and I’ve never seen King Tut, so I figured, why not? I got there literally 7 minutes after the museum opened and they were already sold out of King Tut tickets for the day. Not kidding. But I figured I’d walked all the way out there, might as well go to the museum anyway. Some of the exhibits were fairly underwhelming, but they had an EXCELLENT display on aboriginal life and culture. I know very little about aboriginal Australians, but one thing I was quite impressed with was the amount of attention paid to aboriginals in Australia. You see stuff about them EVERYWHERE – someone was saying there’s even something about the prime minister starting all her speeches with one of the aboriginal languages. I was really impressed because we definitely don’t pay the same attention to Native Americans. It feels like white Australians are quite serious about atoning for past sins. I was quite impressed with that.
Anyway, this exhibition. There was all kinds of interesting historical stuff about the Stolen Generation (basically an early 1900s thing where aboriginal children were taken from their parents and sent to orphanages to be trained to become servants for white Australians) and even stuff before that, like the super early colonial stuff where it was basically a huge giant massacre. There was one story in particular about a tribe in Tasmania where the British rounded up everyone – men, women and children – and basically forced them to jump off this huge cliff into the sea. The history seemed very similar to how we treated the Native Americans, but I found it admirable how much more in the forefront of national consciousness treatment of aboriginals seemed to be than it is in America.
While I’m (sort of) on the subject – something that surprised me about Australia was how much it reminded me of the States. I was expecting degrees of similarity, of course – we both speak English, both settled by British immigrants in the early days, etc – but Australia, more than any country I’ve been to, reminds me the most of America. Definitely more so than England, and I also think Ireland is extremely similar to America, but Australia beats Ireland. It just surprises me because I guess I assumed for a long time that England and America would be extremely similar, but Ireland is more like America than is England, and Australia more like America than Ireland, even. It just surprises me. I sort of didn’t expect that to be the order.
Anyway. Melbourne was lovely but then it was time to go onto sunny, sunny Sydney.
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